When it comes to the world of skin care, advertisements assure that your results will be nothing short of miraculous. Countless gadgets, masks and creams grace the marketplace promising clear, youthful, glowing skin, but who wants to spend a lot of time and money on stuff that might get results?
Bo Wang, MD, PhD, and Mackenzie Kasten, PA-C, of Avera Dermatology in Aberdeen, SD, cut through the fluff, helping you understand what is worth the hype and what is not. Also mentioned are the basic essentials of good skin care you should follow. Take note, these recommendations don’t take into account the cost or affordability products.
Generally, Wang said to be wary of products that overpromise. “Pause whenever something seems too good to be true,” advised Wang. “Prime examples are topical creams that claim to erase cellulite or stretch marks.” These products tend to be overpriced, overpromise results and underdeliver in outcomes.
Red Light Therapy Masks
- Benefits: With consistent use, red light therapy masks can reduce inflammation of the skin and mildly stimulate collagen production.
- Drawbacks: “My biggest concern is eye safety,” said Kasten. “Take precaution by shutting your eyes or using eye protection, such as those used in tanning beds.” (Bonus skin hack: Avoid tanning beds!) In addition, home use doesn’t offer regulations, so you’re responsible for proper use.
- Verdict: Worth it.
- Final Thoughts: “Along with red light, different colored lights have different wavelengths that target different skin concerns,” said Kasten. “Cheaper masks, though helpful, offer weaker wavelengths, so higher end masks with stronger wavelengths typically offer better results.”
Face Masks
- Benefits: “When you use a face mask, the active ingredients stay in close contact with the skin for longer periods of time,” said Wang. “This allows for better absorption than your daily products.”
- Drawbacks: The results are temporary and not a long-term solution or replacement for daily skin care.
- Verdict: Worth it.
- Final Thoughts: For various skin concerns, Wang recommended these face masks:
- Dry skin – choose hydrating masks containing hyaluronic acid, ceramides, glycerin or aloe
- Oily or acne-prone skin – choose masks with salicylic acid, mud or clay, or charcoal
- Uneven tones or aging – choose masks with vitamin C, peptides, collagen or niacinamide
Facial Exercises
- Benefits: Facial exercises may improve blood flow to the face and strengthen face muscles.
- Drawbacks: However, repetitive movements could heighten the appearance of wrinkles.
- Conclusion: Not worth it.
- Final Thoughts: “Because of the risk of wrinkles, facial exercises aren’t a strategy against antiaging,” said Kasten.
Pore Vacuums
- Benefits: No proven benefits.
- Drawbacks: These interesting devices may damage the skin by leaving bruises or disrupting the skin barrier. A strong suction can also cause inflammation.
- Verdict: Not worth it.
- Final Thoughts: “For stubborn blackheads or large pores, consider salicylic acid, chemical peels, retinoids or professional extractions,” said Wang. You can consult a dermatologist for these procedures.
Skin Brushes
- Benefits: “Dry brushing the skin helps exfoliate dead skin cells from the surface, prevent ingrown hairs by preventing clogged pores and boost circulation to the skin — giving a rejuvenating effect,” said Kasten.
- Drawbacks: You must moisturize afterward, otherwise your skin will be drier than before. Also, aggressive movements may irritate or break open your skin.
- Verdict: Worth it.
- Final Thoughts: Get the most benefit through consistent practice and a gentle touch, while also following up with a moisturizer. Also, do not brush skin that is already broken by eczema, a rash or any other skin issue.
Gua Sha and Jade Roller
- Benefits: Gua sha scrape therapy and jade rollers can reduce puffiness.
- Drawbacks: Don’t expect major, long-term results in lift or fat reduction in the face. Also, forceful movement across your skin can run the risk of broken capillaries and bruising.
- Verdict: Worth a try.
- Final Thoughts: Do not gua sha or jade roll skin that is already affected by eczema, a rash or another skin issue.
Pimple Patches
- Benefits: Pimple packets prevent picking as well as bacteria from entering the acne site.
- Drawbacks: It is not effective for deep, hormonal acne. Also, it doesn’t cure the root cause of acne, which could be excess oil, dead skin, bacteria, etc.
- Verdict: Worth a try.
- Final Thoughts: “Look for hydrocolloid as the active ingredient,” said Wang. “These are best for acne that show up with a visible white center.”
You Still Need a Good Skin Care Routine
The truth is, you might not need any of the fancy things above. If you’re interested in new products, try one thing at a time to see how your skin reacts and adapts.
If you’re looking to solve skin-related issues, follow these tips:
- For dry skin, use hyaluronic acid serum.
- For oily/acne-prone skin, use salicylic acid toner or wash.
- For skin prone to stubborn white/black heads, use retinoids with adapalene or tretinoin.
- For antiaging at any age, use retinoids and sunscreen.
“Cleansing and moisturizing your face twice a day along with sunscreen should be the bare minimum for skin care,” said Kasten. Here are the steps of a simple routine:
- Cleanser
- Toner
- Serum
- Acne medications/creams
- Lotion
- Sunscreen
Always apply products from thinnest to thickest, with time between each to allow the product to absorb. Also, seek out products with simple ingredient lists.
“Sometimes less is better,” said Kasten. “Don’t overcomplicate or overwhelm your skin. Just slowly find what works for you.”
Schedule an Appointment
Talk to a dermatology expert near you about healthy skin care habits for your skin type.